Today I left my lovely stay in Falze di Piave. The host, Ivan, dropped in last night to say goodbye (as he wouldn’t see me this morning) and give me a bottle of Prosecco – such lovely, lovely people. Unfortunately, I can’t bring that bottle home (customs limitations, etc.) so I felt compelled to drink it tonight and it was very enjoyable 😉 .
This morning was sunny, but another of those days with a strong haze and relatively low visability, so not great for photos, but who can complain?
I drove first to Conegliano to see the old part of the town. Another market day with people everywhere and a million stall holders selling the same stuff (see comments on a previous post).
Next stop was the small town of Possagnano which was the birth place and home town of the sculptor Canova. They have built an amazing museum there (thanks to his brother, amongst others), with all the plaster casts and clay models and drawings from Canova’s workshop in Rome. It is a pretty amazing place.
It is hard to convey the impression that so many amazing works can make when they are all display together in beautiful natural light (especially as you weren’t allowed to take photos) but here is a sneaky photo of one of the main halls plus some reproductions of some postcards that I bought of my fav pieces.

The last two in particular were amazing for their capture of intense emotion and movement.
Moving on, the next stop was Villa Barbaro in Maser which is one of a number of impressive houses in this region designed by the famous architect, Palladio. This one is also impressive for its numerous rooms that are completely covered in frescoes by Veronese, lots of them in the trompe l’oeil style. Again, no pics allowed inside, but here is an external of the Villa.

Final cultural stop for the day was in the extremely charming village of Asolo, described as “The City of a Hundred Horizons” because of its beautiful vistas in all directions. Sadly, because of the haze, that wasn’t the case today, but it was very lovely and I sat and enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine at the Caffe Centrale which has a very long history as a meeting place for the community and the literati (Hemingway, Browning, Henry James, etc etc).
I was hoping to scoot across to Lake Garda before finding my accommodation in Verona but a combination of road works everywhere and the strong haze (causing the light to dim to dusk by about 4pm) meant that I gave up on that idea and headed stright to Verona, making it to the BnB right on peak hour. As it is in one of the main thoroughfares, it was very tricky getting into the property (car, gates, codes, traffic, etc) but the hosts very kindly assisted and all was well. It is another very pleasant space with a private bathroom which wins the prize for the smallest ensuite ever.

(yes, the loo is in the shower cubicle – total ensuite space approx 1.5m x 1.2m)
Looking forward to renaissance gardens, roman arenas and Shakespearean balconies tomorrow.